There are trips you plan for months, and then there are the ones that simply happen; messy, sun-soaked, full of surprises, and somehow more perfect because of it. This little adventure across Andalucía was exactly that. Five days, five completely different places, three hotels that couldn’t be more unlike each other, and thousands of steps that my legs still remember with a shiver. 

Before I take you through our whirlwind route, I need to say this: 
I first visited Málaga two years ago with my son, Tymon, during his half-term break. It was an unforgettable escape; sunshine, churros, sea breeze, and the feeling of landing somewhere that instantly felt good. Coming back, even just for a moment, it felt like returning to an old friend. 

And now, with that little memory stitched safely into the story, here’s how our Andalucía trip unfolded… 

Málaga  

We landed in Málaga around 9pm. By the time we collected the rental car and reached our hotel, the futuristic Futurotel Malagueta Premium Beach, it was after 10pm. If you’ve never stayed in a capsule hotel, imagine a cosy sci-fi sleeping pod mixed with the charm of airport meditation rooms. I love these places, I’ve stayed in them in Amsterdam, previously in Málaga, and London… each time I feel like a traveler on a tiny space mission. 

Knowing we wouldn’t have time to explore Málaga the next morning, we immediately set out for a late-night wander. Two doors down from the hotel, the universe gave us our first surprise: ‘El Rancho’. In this place, you can eat the largest burger ever. Honestly, the burger was the size of his hand, maybe bigger. Naturally, we paired it with a full bottle of red wine because when in Spain… well, when in Spain, you don’t drink water. Fueled by Rioja confidence, we drifted through the glowing streets of Málaga. 

The Centre Pompidou Málaga lit up the port like a giant rainbow cube. We walked along the Palmeral de las Sorpresas, its palm trees swaying gently in the warm night air. Even at this late hour, the city felt alive, couples strolling, families finishing dinner, children insisting that sleep is optional. 

We wandered past the soft golden glow of the Cathedral of Málaga and eventually treated ourselves to SANTINIS Gelato, because midnight gelato is one of life’s purest joys. 

The quiet magic continued at the Roman Theatre, beautifully illuminated beneath the mighty Alcazaba. Something about ancient stones at night makes the whole world feel slower and older in the best way. By the time we reached the Plaza de Toros, Málaga had already reminded me why I loved it so much the first time. 

We stumbled back to the capsule after 2am and promptly discovered that our futuristic room had decided to turn itself into a sauna. At 6am, sweating like we’d been boiled alive, we escaped outdoors for fresh air… and were rewarded with one of the most beautiful sunrises I’ve seen in a long time. Pink sky, calm water, empty beach. Worth every drop of sweat. 

After dipping our feet into the cool sea and fighting the urge to jump in fully dressed, we headed to ‘Café Central Málaga’ for breakfast. Strong coffee, buttery pastries, and the atmosphere of a city slowly waking up. A perfect start! And then it was time to leave Málaga again… far too soon. 

Gibraltar  

We left Málaga just after 10am, driving along one of the most scenic coastlines in Spain. After about an hour, the unmistakable shape of the Rock of Gibraltar appeared on the horizon, huge, dramatic, and impossible to ignore. 

We parked the car on the Spanish side (highly recommend, secure and only 15 euros for 24 hours) and walked across the border. Just in time, we watched a plane take off across the famous runway that crosses the road. Only in Gibraltar do you treat an active airport runway like a casual zebra crossing. 

Our hotel for the night was the brilliant Sunborn Gibraltar Yacht Hotel Resort. Yes, a real yacht, permanently docked and fancy enough to make you stand up a little straighter when you walk into the lobby. 

We dropped our bags and headed straight for the cable car to the top of the Rock. To “save our legs,” we caught a bus… which was wise, because the cable car queue was nearly two hours long. Two hours of shuffling, sweating, and regretting every life decision that led us to that moment, but then came the reward. 

The top of the Rock was bright, and full of life, mostly monkeys, of course. They were everywhere, unbothered by humans, cheeky, confident, and ready to steal whatever food they spotted. We watched them climb, pose, and generally behave like the undisputed rulers of Gibraltar. 

We visited St. Michael’s Cave, glowing with lights that turned ancient formations into something dreamlike, and Piotr crossed the suspension bridge where he decided to test its strength by jumping… repeatedly. My heart nearly left my body even from watching it from the site. Sadly, we didn’t have time for the tunnels, but that simply gives us a reason to return. 

By the end of the day, we walked over 30,000 steps, including enough stairs to last a lifetime. Dinner at ‘Vinopolis Gastrobar’ was decent but overpriced. The late-night kebab we grabbed after… surprisingly delicious. Travel is full of unexpected twists. For once, we were in bed early, so early that I didn’t even check social media. That alone proves how tired we were. 

The next morning, we woke to a sunrise over the marina, a soft pink glow reflecting off the water. After a tasty breakfast onboard, we checked out, feeling rested and ready for the next stop. 

Utrera 

When I booked our hotel Vracruz for Seville, I didn’t realise it was so far out of the main city. I blame my menopausal brain fog for that one somehow. It might have been one of the best “mistakes” of the trip. Our accommodation turned out to be in Utrera, a charming Andalusian town about 25 minutes south of Seville. And honestly, what a hidden gem. Quiet, local, full of life, without crowds. Trains run back and forth to Seville all day, and with our rental car, getting around is a breeze. 

We arrived from Gibraltar just before 3pm, too late to head into Seville but just in time to slow down. So, we stayed. 

Utrera welcomed us with warm air, orange trees, and the gentle sound of church bells. We wandered through the old streets, moving from one church to another, passing the castle, and watching the squares which were completely empty due to the siesta time. Utrera has an impressive number of churches for its size, each one with a different personality. We started at the Iglesia de Santiago el Mayor, a majestic Gothic church dating back to the 14th century. Its stone façade dominates the skyline, and if you step inside, the cool air and intricate altarpiece instantly remind you why Andalusia takes faith and beauty so seriously. 

A short stroll away, we found Parroquia de Santa Maria de La Mesa , is located in the monumental town center. The church stands quietly proud and a sense of calm that makes you slow down, breathe, and listen. 

We also passed the Castle of Utrera, a medieval fortress whose worn stone walls whisper centuries of stories. Once a Moorish stronghold, it later became part of Christian Spain’s defensive network. Standing before it, at golden hour, it’s easy to imagine the town’s long and layered history from battles to festivals, invasions to celebrations. 

After our mini history tour, we did what Andalusians do best: eat, drink, and enjoy the moment. 

Our first stop, ‘Besana Tapas’, surprised us with creative twists on classic dishes: delicate, modern, and beautifully presented.

Later in the evening, ‘El Ambigú’ offered a completely different vibe: lively, rustic, and full of locals chatting over clinking glasses. Both were unforgettable in their own ways. 

And somewhere between the two meals, we discovered Tinto de Verano, chilled red wine mixed with lemon soda. Refreshing, dangerously drinkable, and, dare I say, even better than Aperol Spritz. I was instantly hooked.  

As the sun dipped, we wandered back to our cozy, quiet hotel, passing shuttered windows and the scent of jasmine in the air. Utrera felt peaceful, grounded in a town that doesn’t need to impress because it already knows who it is. 

Utrera is often called the birthplace of flamenco, and many of Spain’s most famous singers and guitarists trace their roots here. It’s also where the first Carthusian horses were bred, the elegant white Andalusian horses you still see performing in Seville’s equestrian shows. 

If you have time, it’s worth visiting the Convent of the Carmelites, the Plaza del Altozano, and the local Flamenco Museum. And don’t miss the traditional mostachones de Utrera, soft sponge cakes that pair perfectly with morning coffee. 

It might not have been our original plan, but this little town turned out to be one of those places that quietly stays with you. Where history hums in the background, food becomes memory, and the unexpected becomes the highlight. 

Seville 

After a quick breakfast in Utrera, we caught the 10am train, the sun already warming the tracks. Half an hour later, we stepped out into one of the most beautiful cities in Spain. Seville was glowing with promise and Andalusian energy. 

We began our day at the magnificent Plaza de España, a place so beautiful it almost feels unreal and most importantly free to visit. If someone told me we had spent half a day there, I would believe it. Ceramics, bridges, music, everything looks like it belongs to a painting.

We even stumbled upon a small flamenco performance, the dancer’s heels tapping rhythmically against the tiled floor, echoing under the semi-circular archways. It was one of those lovely, accidental travel gifts you don’t plan; they just appear. 

From there, we wandered through the Plaza de Santa Cruz, losing ourselves in the maze of narrow streets. Each one adorned with beautifully crafted doors, wrought-iron balconies, and the kind of charm that begs you to slow down and look closer. We took a much-needed break in a shaded square, where Piotr enjoyed a lager, and I stayed loyal to my newfound obsession with Tinto de Verano. To be completely honest, I drank nothing else during our entire stay in Seville. It was my liquid companion. 

Next came the crown jewel: Catedral de Sevilla. 
A must-see. 
A slow-see. 
A place that demands time, curiosity, and a little reverence. 

The sheer size is overwhelming; every inch carved, every corner drenched in history. The main altar took my breath away, a towering explosion of gold and intricate detail that feels almost impossible to describe. And of course, the tomb of Christopher Columbus, guarded by monumental statues, stands proudly inside, impressive and humbling at the same time. 

We then climbed La Giralda, the cathedral’s iconic bell tower. No steps, just 36 ramps, circling gently upward until the city unfolds beneath you. It’s a surprisingly easy walk, and the view from the top, terracotta roofs, church domes, and the entire historic centre lit by the afternoon sun, is worth every turn. 

We had planned to visit the Royal Alcázar, but by the time we reached it, we were too late. Clearly one day is not enough for Seville, not even close. The city needs time, space, and at least one extra daughter, as you said, to explore properly. But missing it simply gives us a reason to come back. 

Before leaving the centre, we visited the Iglesia Colegial del Divino Salvador, beautifully included in our cathedral ticket. Warm light, pink façades, and richly decorated interiors, the perfect quiet pause before our final stop. 

No visit to Seville feels complete without seeing Las Setas – the Metropol Parasol, affectionately known as “the Mushrooms.” You can walk its wooden curves and admire the sweeping views over the rooftops. Modern, striking, and slightly eccentric, the ideal ending to a day overflowing with history. 

As the sky softened into the early evening, we took the train back to Utrera, arriving just in time for dinner. This time we went to ‘La Delicias’, right opposite the station, and their tapas… honestly, the best we had during our entire stay. Rich flavours, generous portions, and that warm, local atmosphere that makes you feel like you’ve discovered a secret. 

We ended the night full, happy, and already reminiscing about Seville, a city that dazzles, overwhelms, and whispers, “Come back soon.” 

Final day 

Our last morning arrived far too quickly. We didn’t eat much at the hotel, not because we weren’t hungry, but because I had a mission. A final Spanish craving. A farewell ritual. 

I needed churros. Proper churros. 
Dipped in thick, glossy, sinful chocolate. 

So, we headed into the old town; the morning was still soft and quiet. And when the plate arrived, my eyes widened. The portion was enormous, enough to feed an entire family of hungry travellers. The chocolate was rightly sweet; the kind of sweet that makes you close your eyes for a second. We did our best, and somehow, miraculously, we managed to finish it all. No regrets. Not one. 

With our sugary victory complete, we walked back to the hotel, packed our bags with that bittersweet feeling that always comes at the end of a trip, checked out, and pointed the car towards Málaga Airport. 

But of course… we weren’t going straight there. 
Not us. Not after the week we had. 

There had to be one last stop. 
And what a stop it was. 

Our original plan was to take an exciting walk at the Caminito del Rey, this place was on my list for a few good years, but … I tried to use my logic here. To pay the money and walk with close eyes or not pay and change the plan. Unfortunately, my fear of height was stronger than my dream and we decided to choose an alternative trip. 

The drive itself felt like a farewell gift from Andalusia. Winding roads, rolling hills, olive trees stretching endlessly across the landscape. It was as if Spain had decided to give us one final scenic masterpiece before sending us home. 

And then, like a secret revealed, we arrived at Setenil de las Bodegas. 

A village unlike anything we’d seen before. Casas blancas tucked directly under enormous rock overhangs, houses literally carved into cliffs, streets shaded by natural stone ceilings. It’s the kind of place that makes you blink twice, because your brain can’t decide whether it’s a film set, a fantasy village, or a geological miracle that humans just… moved into. 

You don’t just visit Setenil. 
You wander through it in quiet awe. 

We walked the narrow streets, looked up at towering rock roofs hanging above the cafés, and felt instantly enchanted. We were only passing through this time, but you could easily stay for a slow lunch, a cold drink by the river, or even dinner tucked beneath the stone arches. 

After soaking in its beauty, we reluctantly returned to the car, set the sat nav to the airport, and let the road take us back to real life. But the images from the last few days: Málaga’s glowing nights, Gibraltar’s monkeys, Seville’s golden altar, Utrera’s calm charm, and now Setenil’s extraordinary cliffs, stayed with us like souvenirs stitched into memory. 

A journey full of surprises, long walks, heavenly food, and stories waiting to be told. 

And just like that… 
our Andalusian adventure ended. 

Final Thoughts 

Looking back at our escape, one thing is crystal clear: 

Every place we visited was completely different, and it wouldn’t be fair to choose a favourite. 

Málaga’s energy. 
Gibraltar’s wild cliffs and cheeky monkeys. 
Seville’s golden heart and artistic soul. 
Utrera’s peaceful, authentic charm. 
Setenil’s unbelievable rock-carved wonder. 

Each one had its own personality, its own rhythm; its own stories whispered through the streets. 

And the hotels we stayed in? 
All different. A futuristic capsule in Málaga, a floating yacht in Gibraltar, a quiet and welcoming stay in Utrera. Each one was a totally separate experience, and all of them are so worth considering if you’re piecing together your own Andalusian adventure. 

Renting a car was the right choice. 
It gave us freedom, spontaneity, and the ability to discover places like Setenil that would have stayed hidden otherwise. But… if we were to do it again, spending more time in Seville and Málaga would be irresistible. These cities deserve slow mornings, long strolls, and entire days of soaking in their magic. 

This trip was short, vivid, funny, exhausting, and absolutely unforgettable. 
A patchwork of places, flavours, sunrises, and memories stitched together into a story I’ll happily read again and again. 

Pro tips before you go:

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🚌 Seeking a sense of adventure? Then book day tours and activities with GetYourGuide Trip.com or Viator
🏥 Wan’t to keep yourself insured as you travel? Then I recommend VisitorsCoverage.
🚘 Planning a road trip? Then check out AutoEurope or simply like me, book a train ticket Rail Europe
✈️ Looking to score the best flight deals? Then check out Trip.com for the best options 
📸 Don’t want to forget you have to pack for a trip and make the memories? Then this bag and this camera are for you!
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